Marshall Vintage Modern 2266 Manual Transmission
I cant REALLY review it completely because the amp was in store, turned up half way and has not been broken in, but my excited, schoolboy attitude on the 1 year wait from when I first heard about its release, until my excited play day was as follows,Im an early Marshall fan, big time and have not yet found a rival for these amps, the VM was 'sterile' sounding and I would even say I heard a bit of the DSL shine through, mainly the hollowness theyre associated with when using single coil pickups, I played the 50w combo. I feel the amp just wasnt anything to write home about, Id much rather an old Marshall re-issue with real tube tone, not a preamp orientated new Marshall.The 'pop' and finesse just wasnt anywhere to be found in this amp for me. Thanks.and I'm hoping for a lot of responses.
It is good to hear different opinions on it, and I'm grateful you included some good details. With me it is somehow helpful when I do get into a store that has one (and hopefully one that has an amp room) and get the negative and positive comments because it narrows for me what to look out for. If I find myself excited by the sound, but make a mental checklist.because a lot of things sound great for 10 minutes, etc, but when you live with them day in day out.So it is really important to get exactly this kind of detail in response!Thanks! I played the 2266 with the matching cab for about an hour last week. It was in a store, but a friend of mine owns the place and lets me crank stuff pretty decently when there aren´t any innocent customers around.I thought it sounded pretty darn good throughout the entire dirty range, from slightly distorted blues via Keith Scott-esque crunch up to AC/DC and eighties hair metal. Definitely a solid amp in the classic gain range, and if I had to buy a Marshall this would be it.
I liked it alot better than the JCM2000´s and the JVM. It also worked well with additional kick from pedals.The cleans weren´t really happening, though. Decent, workable, but absolutely nothing special. But then again I´m spoiled by my Riveras. I played the 2266 head today through different 4x12 and 2x12 cabs.here´s what i thought.-no matter what, the bass response with a les paul was very 'loose'. I likevintage but that was too much for my taste.-i couldn´t get a good tone out of it at low volumes. The master imho mustbe set at least to more than 12 o clock to get anything useful there.
When cranked it sounded nice but doen´t make me wanna drop my 2553 silver jub for it. (i know, a different animal but still.)-when on high dynamic mode for a nice lead tone i couldn´t get it to clean up with the volume pot (something the jubilee does.).
Marshall Vintage Modern 2266 Manual Transmission Kit
So there is either lead on high dynamic or clean/slight crunch rythm tone on low dynamic with an additional booster for leads. I guess that´s what it´s supposed to be.-the amp is sensible on cabs. They didn´t have the 425a in stock so i tested it through diezel 2x12 + 4x12 / a 1960A / 1960av / framus 2x12 / laboga 4x12 + 2x12.
If i remember right the 1960av as well as the laboga 4x12 were my faves. I didn´t like the amp at all with the above mentioned 2x12 cabs.take it for what it´s worth. I guess if i had the amp at my rehearsal space with a proper cab i would probably be able to dial in something i really like. But that didn´t happen in the shop today.i tried to like the vm but i honestly prefered the jvm over it. Simply because it´s easy to find good tones at all volume levels with the jvm. As a pedal platform i´d rather go for a jtm45 or something.due to i am looking for more versitality in my next amp the vm didn´t cut it.i want to plug my guitar in and have a decent clean, good crunch and good lead tone on tap without a bunch of od/boost-pedals / hot plates and stuff. The silver jub does the job a better for me than the vm.but as usual.
Give it a try, your impression may be totally different from mine.:BEER. I tried it in a shop the other day- i had it up to about halfway up on the master.below about 2 on the master, it sounded horrible.between about 2-4, it sounded a lot better. Useable, i guess.Around 5, it was getting close to decent-to-good-sounding; however, it was very hard to dial out the aforementioned-flub without it getting too trebly.
And vice versa, it was hard to dial out the harsh treble without it getting woolly in the bass.There was also a harsh grittiness to the tone that was hard to dial out too. I thought it had too much gain for classic rock, but not enough for anything much more modern.Reacted well to the guitar's volume control, though, cleaned up pretty well.I wasn't particularly impressed. Not terrible, but i certainly wouldn't consider buying one.Obviously you may feel differently upon trying it yourself.:BEER. The PPIV Master volume is terrible, I can't belive there are guys that think they sound good on amps. Put the Master up to at least 3:00 or preferably full up, then set the detail up around 3:00 body around noon. If you are using hb's, leave the midboost off or it will get flubby.
With sc's the mid boost is pretty nice.I was able to set the amp up this way and it would clean up just fine with the gtr vol.I recorded this the other day straight amp with the above set up (mids on 10, treb and pres alittle under half and bass around 9:00).Its probably heavier style tones than you guys like here, but you get the idea.George. Thanks so much guys for the input. Greaz.I'm at work so will have to listen to the clip later, but thanks to you also for posting it.Seems to be a pretty consistent consensus so far.
Very similar reports on this. I know I HAVE to try one for myself.but will be very critical and looking for those problems.also I want to try it with the head/cab I think, and use the one that is designated for it. Also at different volumes.The 'jub' is a jubelium? What is the actual name, and how is it similar (if it is) in features to the Vintage Modern? Does it have built-in reverb, master? The 'jub' is a silver jubilee marshall that was built for a short period in the late eighties.
Please use a search, there´s plenty of information on this amps. Mine is the 2553 version meaning it´s the smallbox 50 watt head that is switchable to 25w (a useless feature imho.).
It´s very different from a vm and also not the most versitile amp. It can switch between clean and lead but uses the same eq. So it´s either a good clean or a good lead tone. No reverb but master volume.
The silver jubilees became collectible lately so the prices have gone up quite a bit. I wouldn´t pay the prices that they sell for on ebay right now. I got mine some years back for about $500 and that´s a good tone/price ratio.if i didn´t have it already i would look elsewhere.
Overview:We keep being asked about Mopar Overdrives, so I thought I would do a blog on spotting overdrives.I know from the start this is not the definitive guide, thus I have titled it - 'The Rough Field Spotters Guide forOverdrives' and this will start off being slanted towards Plymouths!This will definitely grow as I need to take some pictures of earlier (pre-1942) overdrives to put up.If you want to add replies with more information, super, more than welcome. If you want to send me picturesand add them in, again more than welcome. I will be putting a list of contributors on the bottom. I say that because my intention if to keep adding to this.
As well I will put up a few pictures that I happen to have close at hand, but will adjust, add and change pictures as time goes on.I may also put in a tab with links to other sites, article etc on overdrives as I find them!Chapter 1:Chrysler started using Overdrive Transmissions in 1934 and Walter Chrysler described it something to the effect, that the use of true overdrive transmissions were made for high speed cruising and award-winning economy should drivers opt for moderate operation.' Chrysler at White House (cropped)' by Harris & Ewing, photographerThere were several generation of early overdrives used prior to Walter Chrysler's death on 1940, starting with the introduction in1934 and there use would extend to every part of the Mopar family before the retirement of the L-Head of Flathead Engine Line.We will concentrate here on the early overdrives, leading up to the 'peak' of the Borg Warner Electric Overdrive coming out in the 1952 Plymouth Car line with the R10G1 Borg Warner overdrive attached to a 3 speed manual transmission.
The R10G1 was used fro 1952 to 1956, when Plymouth then changed to the longer R10J1 Borg Warner overdrive transmission.Along the way in the 1952 Canadian Dodge and Fargo heavy trucks a 5 speed transmission was introduced with an option of having 5th gear as overdrive. Teamed up with a 2 speed rear axle, it provided quite a range for hauling heavy payloads, or rolling down the highway empty.Chapter 2: - The history of the overdrives (short version)On Monday April 13, 1931 when the United States Patent Office opened, Rex Keller was there to file application # 529,666, making 36 Claims for patent of a “Clutch”. This application would eventually be issued of May 16, 1939 as patent # 2,158,544 to Rex E Keller Los Angeles California.The application for patent was pitched to Walter P Chrysler, who would assign it to Carl Breer the head of Engineering to see if they could utilize the concept. In Carl Breers, book/autobiography entitled “The Birth of Chrysler Corporation and Its Engineering Legacy” there is an excellent explanation of what took place and here is an excerpt of that book.It would be during this process that the terms “Keller Clutch” and “Overdrive” would come forward. It should be noted that this “Keller Clutch” is not named after K.T Keller (Kaufman Thuma Keller) who was head of Chrysler Manufacturing at the time, and would upon Walter Chrysler retiring in 1935 become the “hand-appointed successor” as Chairman of the Board of Chrysler Corporation, but was Rex E Keller and inventor from Los Angeles California.Once Engineering had perfected the Overdrive Transmission Carl Breer discussed its manufacturing with K.T Keller, and both asked for a meeting with Walter Chrysler to discuss that matter. Breer and Keller made a presentation on both the “Keller Clutch”/Overdrive Transmission as well as its manufacture Their estimated cost to setup manufacturing was $25,000, to which Walter Chrysler is quoted in Breers book as saying “We can’t afford it; let Borg Warner make it.”What isn’t included in Breer’s book is how the $25,000 estimate was arrived at, or what the recommendation of Keller and Breer was. It is my belief that Keller, who was already stretched to bring the new Airflow to completion made sure the estimate was high enough that the joint recommendation of Keller and Breer would be approved by Walter Chrysler.My Grandfather’s opinion was that this was the most expensive error in Chrysler’s history and ironically mirrored that of Henry Ford with the Dodge Brothers.
While it brought the Overdrive transmission to the Chrysler and Desoto lines well ahead of any other automotive manufacturer, it also opened up a Patent that was controlled by Chrysler to its competition through the manufacturing deal with Borg Warner. It would soon be referred to as “the Borg Warner Overdrive”.Well after my Grandfather’s death when Daimler agreed to sell the Chrysler unit to Cerberus Capital Management in May 2007 for US$6 billion, Borg Warner had a market cap value of almost twice the value of Chrysler.Unfortunately it seems Grandfather was indeed correct, and he often pointed out that it was not the 1 st time where a smaller supplier was put into business and eventually dwarfed the larger manufacturer. Of course he was referring to the Dodge Brothers who prior to going on their own to manufacture their own Cars and Trucks, were major suppliers for Henry Ford.
In 1903 the Dodge brothers had agreed to supply Henry Ford with 650 chassis (including engines, transmissions, and axles) for $250 each.In this case to avoid a further investment of $25,000 Chrysler put a much small manufacturer into a business, which later on would come back to bite Chrysler. To put it into relative terms Chrysler had purchased Dodge for approximately $170 million in 1928.On March 14, 1934 Rex Keller would file application # 715,513, with the United States Patent Office making 4 Claims for patent of an ”Automatic Transmission”. This application would eventually be issued of December 17, 1940 as patent # 2,225,174 to Rex E Keller Beverly Hills California. It would be in this application for patent that the first use of the terminology “Overdrive” would be used.
Ironically this patent was not issued until after Walter P Chrysler’s death some 4 months earlier.So who was Borg Warner -In 1902 Thomas W. Warner formed the Warner Gear Company in Muncie Indiana to manufacture automobile parts, steering, and transmission gears. In 1909 the First manual transmission is manufactured by Warner Gear. The original Borg-Warner Corporation was formed in 1928 by the merger of Warner Gear, which itself was founded by Thomas Warner in 1901; Borg & Beck founded by Charles Borg and Marshall Beck in 1903 and Marvel Schelber Carburetor Co founded in 1905 by George Schebler and the Mechanics Universal Joint Company.Chapter 3: The patents- Work in progress.
R3) A few early picturesI will attach here a few early pictures, lol and by early I mean early in the development of this blog post. Not early in theoverdrives coming from Chrysler. That will come later. I have looked for years for one of these Plymouth overdrives and have not been successful. I made the huge error of listening and putting an s10 t5 in one car. It came out of a diesel truck with a 2.4 ltr engine as the person claimed was the perfect donor transmission. It was a ton of work.
It was well beyond what was glossed over in forum entries. After it was taken out of my car I looked closer and found out why. Its 1st gear has a ratio of 4.03, a 2nd gear of 2.37 a 3rd gear of 1.49 a 4th gear of 1.00 and a 5th gear of.86. 14% overdrive in 5th gear that is all there was. I know I cant find a Plymouth overdrive and I know the t5 is a bad option. I don't want to post on the forum given that I have spent hours reading posts on blow hearts like the jackasses that got me trapped into the t5 crap in the 1st place. I have created this account because I am interested in getting REAL information and not enter into the boxing ring with a bunch of blow hearts.
I have a 1948 Plymouth club coupe and it was because of your post that I got a 354 rear end out of a Chrysler and in half a Saturday I had it changed into my car. I had better results with a $75 expenditure in half a Saturday than anything I have done to the car. Can you tell me if there are any overdrive options for guys like me who would like an overdrive. A spotters guide is a really great tool but after a decade of looking I have given up. I am not rich.
I cant afford another s10 goose chase. I know you did not send me on that. Can you help me? I have a budget of around $1000.
If there is no hope please tell me. My email address is. See note: if you would be able to email me if this is not the appropriate vehicle for my inquiry. I would just like to use the winter time to improve my car while I am not working and have it in a heated garage. I have one last thing to say which is thank you for your time and effort to publish this blog.Note:I am removing my email today to avoid unsolicited emails. This is not a reflection of anyone in this thread currently. Well I am sorry to hear of all your work and efforts only to have them not work out.
While I am far from a fan of the t5 transmission conversion I do know those who made it work for them and were happy with the end results. Lol or at least they were not prepared to admit that it wasn't the best idea. We are all often guilty of doing something and then believing it is the only possible answer to a problem or that others are crazy to do anything else. I too can be guilty of that I am sure. As by Grandfather used to say there is a reason they make Chocolate, Vanilla and Strawberry IceCream.
If you then pushed and said, so are you saying Chevy's are great car, you might be surprised by his response. It was one that my Dad often gave - 'I love Chevy's and I am glad people buy them, because if they didn't I could not have made a great living beating them and fixing them!' .I will send you a detailed email to you with a chart of all of the T5 transmissions, covering the gear splits and overdrives available. For the blog, I will say if I already went to all the work you have, so it is really the splits and lack of a decent overdrive ratio, you may wish to consider finding a bettersuited t5. There are definitely t5's with much better overdrive ratios, and there are some with slightly better gear ratio splits. The t5 was designed for engines with way less torque than a flathead mopar, and in many cases engines with far less horsepower.
So it is a compromise.That being said, everything other than the mopar overdrive which was designed for the vehicle, is going to be.With a $1k budget, unless you find a 52-56 Plymouth overdrive in a scrap yard and can get it outwith the wiring, kick down switch, relay etc cheap, your going to have a hard time getting into thatsnack bracket. With all the work you have already completed. Here are some examples:TAG # VEHICLE APPLICATION REV 1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th1352-065 Ford 1984 Mustang/Capri 5.0 V8 2.76 2.95 1.94 1.34 1.00 0.631352-035 AMC 1983 Jeep CJ 2.1 L4 Diesel 2.2 2.76 2.95 1.94 1.34 1.00 0.73That is not a definitive list, that I will send to you. I also want to say I amno expert on these transmissions, so you will need to do some research to seeif they can be a direct replacement for the one you pulled out. But for examplethe Jeep (aka soon to be a Mopar) has a 2.95 1st, and a.73 5th so that mayachieve. Your stock transmission has a 1st of 2.57, 2nd of 1.83 3rd of 1.0 and reverse of 3.48Sorry if I am sounding like the t5 transmission conversion fan here, because I am definitely not that, but when you have already put all the time, effort and money into a conversion the cheapest solution may just be to find a better t5 to suit your application.Now on to your other part of your post and what is really what you were looking for from me; another option.So once upon a time I would have went down the road of a floor shift.
The trucks I love and learnedto drive in, the car I drive every day, and even the 1st car I purchased were all floor shift models. That means I am predisposed to floor shift. I have a 1948 Plymouth Club Coupe as well as a 1949 Plymouth Business Coupe and if it was 30 years ago I would guarantee I would only be interested in a floor shift.
Lol but today, my 49 is still a column shift and I could have made it a floor shift. Even with the 1952-56 r10 in it, I have a shifter my Dad made/modified to allow for the R10 to be a floor shift. I just didn't want to loose the 'floor real estate' that the floor shift took up.That being said, I know many still want a floor shift and while its not clear if that was in yourmotivation, my next solution would be floor shift. Also likely not surprising it is not a Chevy or T5 solution.My suggestion would be to use a 1975-85 Mopar (aluminum case) A833 4speed transmission.It has gear splits of 1st: 3.09:1, 2nd: 1.67:1 3rd: 1:1 4th: 0.73:1 (Trucks used a 0.71:1 fourth)The high level of doing the conversion is this. You will need an adapter plate and screwsto connect the A833 4 speed to your stock bell housing. You will not need to grind and modify your bell housing.
You will need to change your clutch to fine spline although everything else works, even the pilot bushing is the same. On the back of the transmission you will need to change the yoke of the tranny and modify the drive shaft to accommodate the modern yoke. Or you canchange the rear end to a more modern rear end which would give you bigger brakes and an easier solution for the parking brake. As I know you will have had to deal with when your did the t5 conversion, when you loose your original Plymouth 3 speed, you loose your brake drum on theback of the transmission for the parking brake.There is the Coles Note version of an A833 4 speed with overdrive conversion. Depending on the model of Plymouth and year, you may need to modify the shifter leaver coming up through the floor.
We have already assisted in one project that put the A833 into a 1937 Plymouth. Yes,that car has the X-Frame with the loop and yes he was able to deal with that added challenge.He had to modify the shifter so it bent left (towards the passenger side) and then again forward (toward the fire wall) so it came up the original floor shift position in the 1937. But it fit in perfectly and to quote him - 'it shifts like a dream'.Keep in mind the A833 4 speed I am referring to is the aluminum cased model that came out with overdrive in 1975 and not the earlier Cast Iron model that is highly sought after by the Mopar Big Block folks. That earlier transmission would give you the floor shift, but is 1.1 in 4th, so you get nooverdrive.I will do a blog at some point on a 'A833 4speed with overdrive Primer' but for now, if you or anyone else is interested you can always send me a not and we will be happy to help.Tim. Tim - thanks for the time you put into your response and the dose of reality contained in it.
It was a lot of work, modifications and cost to put in the t5. It is clear in my head there are a lot of guys out pushing this conversion and I wished I had never listened to them. You do make a great point and I do have a lot invested already so if you could send me the chart it would be helpful. Its clear you wouldn't recommend a t5 conversion if starting from scratch which says a lot when your recommending that I find a different t5. It speaks volumes and I respect and appreciate you recommending what may be best for my particular situation. I have emailed the cross reference chart to you (which can also be found on the forum under other threads).
You are correct,In the end, I think the work effort exceeds the end result.The t5 conversion is something I first heard of and saw 25 years ago. It has always made me smile when the roots of the idea came from a GM guy who was looking for a 4 speed floor shift for his stovebolt.
The 1st one I saw working, the guy would start off in 2nd, shift to 4th, then 5th as the gear splits were terrible. Since then I was given access to a chart showing the various splits or ratios and I can see why there is a wide range of happy and unhappy people.But having said that, since you have everything done, floor cut, bellhousing modified and all the tough stuff done, for you, this makes the most sense to me. If you were starting from 'square one' I would not recommend this route. With your budget I think you should be able to salvage your time, effort and investment and with a better split t5 should achieve the over-drive goal that I think your looking for.Best of luck and keep us posted! There were more of the 1939s that were floor shift than had the optional column shift.
That tranny will slide right in where your 1937 was with no modifications to the drive shaft. But if the guys is pulling the engine and tranny to put in a v8, hey the driveshaft likely is of no use to him and another tip. He is likely going to pull the rear end and you may like the gear set in that1939 Chrysler better than you Plymouth. The gear ratio should be located on the inside of the housing on a 1939.That assumes of course that it is available and you want it!Tim. Howdy Countrytravler - Cool finds.
On the 38 and 40 Chrysler there are pictures of those trannys above in the spotters guide. There definitely both different from each other and if you need any information let me know. On the customers comment on 1935-40 Dodge and Plymouths, neither had overdrive trannys from the factory.
Not USA, not Canadian, and not export models that I know of and I have a great deal of documentation. The overdrives were Chrysler and Desoto. Now, having said that I have a 1941 Plymouth that was a Canadian built car. Keep in mind that Canada entered WW2 in 1939, so there are 1939 and 1940 Plymouths, and there are some 1941 Dodges but there ar almost no 1941 Plymouths. My grandfather's brother was a Dr and he had applied for an got a permit for a car. He got the car, we still have the original bill of sale, the ownership and the serial numbers are match. The car has almost no miles on it.
He volunteered went into WW2 and was killed. The car was parked in a barn that was severely damaged by Hurricane Hazel in the early 50s and the car was parked in the back lane at the farm I live at now. The trees and grown around it someone has removed tires and a over the decades pieces have grown legs. I will attach pictures.
Everyone who knows anything about Plymouths will say - hey that is a 1946. Or may call it a 1946 - 48.It is not. The engine block cast date is Jan 10 1941. The serial numbers on the car, the engine all match what is on the original bill of sale. In that car is an overdrive and if your look closely in the interior there are gauging and a radio that was never offered.
Its a Dr coupe and between the cabin and trunk is all wood. There is wood framing in the doors and that is 1920-30s stuff there is definitely no wood used in 1946 - 48.I mention this because I know for a fact it is as it came from the factory, yet not in 1940-41, not in 1946-48 were Plymouths offered with overdrives. They 1st appeared in 1952, actually were put in cars that were coming off the line in Canada in September of 1951 and I am sure many will love to debate me on my 1941 being authentic, although trust me if that car had stayed in the barn it would be worth a fortune.
As it sits, well from a family standpoint its priceless but in monetary value its not worth much.But the point is there are examples of stuff coming from the factory that are not in brochures. Would love to see it when you come across it. The only stuff I have is shipping from Canada which even in the 1930s would make a lot more sense for UK than being shipped from the USA which would have seen a tariff attached. Even the convertibles which after 1936 were still made in the USA, shipped over to Canada from Detroit to Windsor and because the frame was made in Canada some how were exported as Canadian goods.
Ive seen a few pieces of import paperwork from guys in England with 23 1/2' USA motors in Plymouths and a couple labelled as Dodges but were basically Plymouths. Howdy Countrytravler - Cool finds. On the 38 and 40 Chrysler there are pictures of those trannys above in the spotters guide. There definitely both different from each other and if you need any information let me know. On the customers comment on 1935-40 Dodge and Plymouths, neither had overdrive trannys from the factory.
Not USA, not Canadian, and not export models that I know of and I have a great deal of documentation. The overdrives were Chrysler and Desoto. Now, having said that I have a 1941 Plymouth that was a Canadian built car.
Keep in mind that Canada entered WW2 in 1939, so there are 1939 and 1940 Plymouths, and there are some 1941 Dodges but there ar almost no 1941 Plymouths. My grandfather's brother was a Dr and he had applied for an got a permit for a car. He got the car, we still have the original bill of sale, the ownership and the serial numbers are match.
The car has almost no miles on it. He volunteered went into WW2 and was killed. The car was parked in a barn that was severely damaged by Hurricane Hazel in the early 50s and the car was parked in the back lane at the farm I live at now. The trees and grown around it someone has removed and a over the decades pieces have grown legs. I will attach pictures. Everyone who knows anything about Plymouths will say - hey that is a 1946.
Or may call it a 1946 - 48.It is not. The block cast date is Jan 10 1941. The serial numbers on the car, the engine all match what is on the original bill of sale.
In that car is an overdrive and if your look closely in the interior there are gauging and a radio that was never offered. Its a Dr coupe and between the cabin and trunk is all wood. There is wood framing in the doors and that is 1920-30s stuff there is definitely no wood used in 1946 - 48.I mention this because I know for a fact it is as it came from the factory, yet not in 1940-41, not in 1946-48 were Plymouths offered with overdrives. They 1st appeared in 1952, actually were put in cars that were coming off the line in Canada in September of 1951 and I am sure many will love to debate me on my 1941 being authentic, although trust me if that car had stayed in the barn it would be worth a fortune. As it sits, well from a family standpoint its priceless but in monetary value its not worth much.But the point is there are examples of stuff coming from the factory that are not in brochures.
Well, I am putting an r10g1 overdrive in my 1946 P-15- Does anyone have photos of the control cable installation?I don't know where it goes under the dash, through the firewall, etc.ThanksWardHi Ward -Its not too complex. In 1952 they actually came out mounted on the right (passenger) side of the steering column. I mounted mine (like this picture) right beside the emergency brake cable. It would have went through the firewall in several places. I drilled a hole and used a rubber grommet and then down under the frame and hooked it on to the tranny.Try not to turn real sharp as the cable does need to travel My biggest challenge was to find a mounting bracket. The overdrive cables often dont come with mounting brackets.
Its really not too complex. Wiring, well that can be so I would strongly suggest making sure your have a decent diagram or invest in a wiring harness from the AoK boys. That wasone of the best investments I made!