1314 Pc Programming Station Software
1314 PC Programming Station (OEM) A guide to uninstall 1314 PC Programming Station (OEM) from your PC1314 PC Programming Station (OEM) is a Windows program. Software ApplicationDisclaimerThe text above is not a piece of advice to remove 1314 PC Programming Station (OEM) by Curtis Instruments from your computer, we are not saying that 1314 PC Programming Station (OEM) by Curtis Instruments is not a good software application. This page only contains detailed instructions on how to remove 1314 PC Programming Station (OEM) in case you decide this is what you want to do. Here you can find registry and disk entries that other software left behind and Advanced Uninstaller PRO stumbled upon and classified as 'leftovers' on other users' computers.
Anybody know what is available (chilton's, haynes, etc) for 06 taurus? +1 on the factory service manual and wiring diagram. 
Welcome to BGW DaleI think the safest is the FTDI USB to TTL interface with invert turned on. Not all Curtis controllers support the status LED mod. I would caution others with Curtis controllers to avoid risking their RXD port with straight RS-232 connections. A couple of ppl in this thread have killed their RXD port by direct connecting to a computer port that swings too far in voltage.As much as I like the Curtis controllers for AC motors, for series DC motors I tend to lean towards the Alltrax controllers.
I certainly hope your project turns out well. Electric motorcycles can be so awesome!Bob.
I delete all 'Curtis Instruments' registry entry, and restart the software, then 'Access Level' is OEM mode.but reconnect the controller, it become user mode.show the warning:The application is not fully configured. Please connect the 1309 USB interface and restart application again.Thank you for the reply. Are you using a non-Curtis FTDI or other interface? Or, are you using an authentic Curtis device for this process? Does it matter in order to attain OEM mode?
Once in OEM mode, can you copy the internal firmware from one 1228-XXXX to a different 1228-YYYY where XXXX is not the same as YYYY but both have the same current ratings. I hope this makes sense. Using 4.6.10 version of the software and a homebrew OEM USB (1309-like) interface I stay in OEM when connected but have never seen any firmware operatins on my 1234 controller.Just a small thing on the interface.The Curtis controller talks inverted TTL, so if you use older software you could try an FTDI chip and program it like the TX and RX lines ar inverted, however at that time it did not work for me so I used an inverter IC.
Later it turned out Curtis used the schitt tirgger version, but both worked fine.Now that they use newer software they probably use FTDI chip themself with own UIP and PID programmed. I do this myself and invert RX and TX signals.
This works fine.OEM can only be obtained by using the right data in the internal eeprom of the chip. FT-prog or M-prog will not allow you to program that data unfortunately.An other problem is the cloned FTDI chips. Somehow the market seems to het flooded with counterfit FTDI devices. FTDI disabled them with the latest drivers, they even had them acting up for a while but since that could cause serious problems they just deactivate them. The countermeasure if the counterfitters was making the chip write-proof, it still acts like an FTDI chip, but you can not cahnge the data.So quite a struggle, I still have strange chips in the drawer.I do als have some good material that I do not use (nicely boxed with 4-pin mplex and mini USB connector ready to go) PM me if you could use it.Only for hobby, no warranty no software included and not for free:-)Since there are so many strange chips around I can only advise you toy buy original FTDI from a big and trusted seller, and yes these are not cheap. Is you want to programm the right data you should know your way wiyh linux because windows fools from FTDI most cirtainly will not get you there.I also have seen lots of people using cheap usb-rs232 interfaces claiming that works well.
I always advised from the start of this tread to talk 5-volts TTL but people revuse to take that advice.I now learn several controllers did not take the +/- 15V maximum to well. TTL is 0 and 5V for Curtis. Sorry that I did not notice this post sooner.
I don't monitor this thread.Did you make sure that the FTDI chip that you used is genuine FTDI? The chinese have semi-successfully copied the FTDI chip function-wise and sell them, some with the same markings as the genuine chips. They do not function identically and the newer FTDI driver can detect the differences. I have not seen your issue where once the registry is set that it fails when reading or writing with the FTDI cables that I made. Mine works perfectly every time.BobHi Bob, I missed your message as well, I was not following the tread either.I use FTDI chip that seems genuine, but it is hard to tell. I already stumbled across the some fakes before. Some even seem to have some protection against new drivers that detect the fakes.
Curtis 1309 Usb Driver
They are not writable.I do not have an original 1309, I made myself a cable that gets me into OEM mode. If I use an FTDI chip with just the VIP and PID programmed correctly I seem to lose OEM again. Somehow it looks to me the software did not check my registry, but checked the interface when I connected.MAybe it is because I never had an original 1309 attached.The only seller I thrust for selling real original FTDI chip boards or cables sell these for about $ 20-30 anything on ebay is suspicious.Anyway using information on this tread go my homebrew interface to talk and stay in OEM Manufacturer and Product description do not seem to be important.
Only the right vid ad pid. Some other bytes probably allow OEM but it does not seem possible to program these with FT-prog. Hi Bob, I missed your message as well, I was not following the tread either.I use FTDI chip that seems genuine, but it is hard to tell. I already stumbled across the some fakes before.
Some even seem to have some protection against new drivers that detect the fakes. They are not writable.I do not have an original 1309, I made myself a cable that gets me into OEM mode. If I use an FTDI chip with just the VIP and PID programmed correctly I seem to lose OEM again.
Somehow it looks to me the software did not check my registry, but checked the interface when I connected.MAybe it is because I never had an original 1309 attached.The only seller I thrust for selling real original FTDI chip boards or cables sell these for about $ 20-30 anything on ebay is suspicious.Anyway using information on this tread go my homebrew interface to talk and stay in OEM Manufacturer and Product description do not seem to be important. Only the right vid ad pid. Some other bytes probably allow OEM but it does not seem possible to program these with FT-prog.It may be your version of programming software and OS. I was a Factory level OEM with Curtis for many years and had 3 leased programming stations. My contract, NDA, and leases ran out, so I bought my own OEM level handset and interface before that happened.I use the latest Curtis software, which does use the registry, the older software does not.
Once you plug in an authentic (or properly cloned) 1309 interface and attempt to communicate with a Curtis controller, the newer software will write the registry with the interface access level, and the interface level check is bypassed in the future. Again, this only applies to the newer Curtis programming station software. You will need the newer software to access advanced parameters in the newer Curtis controllers.If you can write the EEPROM area of your FTDI chip, if you load that block of data that I provided earlier, it will pass the 1309 verification test as an authentic OEM 1309. My original OEM 1309 is boxed up and put away for safekeeping, and I only use my cloned FTDI interfaces for programming now.Bob. Hi Bob,I used 4.6.7 version in windows 10, I now have 4.6.10 version in windows 7 and 10 and these work fine with the homebrew interface.I only have a home buit interface with 128 byes from the forum programmed. I am missing the last 16 bytes.(0000 0000 0000 0000 4941 5459 5531 4F37) I don't know what these do or if I should even be able to program this.
If I recall correctly the ftdi chip I use only had 128bytes eeprom available. Maybe these last bytes are not important.With my homebrew interface I stayed in OEM, but when I used an FTDI board with just vid and pid programmed it switched back to user.Do you think I sill have too old software or wrong OS version to try this again and see if it stays in OEM even if I use and ftdi with only proper vid and pid?I have a working system but programming a genuine ftdi chip with FT-prog and changing a regsitry setting could be a solution for other homebrewers.Working Linux to program the eeprom is a bit difficult. Hi,I have 2 Curtis 1228-2720 and they are operational but there is no way to get them connected to the 1314 PC Programming Station in order to change some settings.I tried all sorts of molex-serial cables suggested, I tried connecting it without the USB interface on a computer with serial port and I also tried a TTL Serial Cable 5V. All of them gets to the same error message 'Initialization of communication interface failed'All cables are working when testing it with the DACIO terminal testing suggested.I am connecting the controller to a 24V battery and have the key switch pin to the B+.I am using 1314-4402 PC Programming Station Version 4.6.7Would someone have a clue on how I can get into this controller?
Nandohila,With the older 1314-4401 (V3) programming station we buit a cable converting the serial signal into TTL and invert that signal. Using USB to serial cables one also still needs to convert to TTL and invert. Some people did not do that and it seemd some worked, but it is tricky becaus you might damage the communiaction port.With the new 1314-4402 (V4) software Curtis switched to a USB interface. It still talks serial, but meeds to have the right VID and PID programmed in the USB to serial chip to get recognized.So if your controller could work with 1314-4401 you could use the old serial to interface.If your controller is newer and needs the 1314-4402 you have the have a FT232RL interface that is properly programmed as described earlier.You say you tried all sorts of programming cables but it is hard to find where it actually goes wrong. I hope the above helps you determine what could be the problem.